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When assembling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning venues. Yet, situated near the top among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has made the owners completely shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks the family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their small restaurant earning such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.